As may be expected from a former child star, justin bieber clothes has had many a fashion transformation over time. He’s done quiffed hair and a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented by using a floppy fringe and a suit. But although some of his tries to toughen up happen to be met with derision, the most up-to-date part in the Biebvolution is in fact bang around the fashion money. There has been ripped jeans. We have seen oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts using the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen a great deal of layering – and many raw edges.
Not every person gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) but the latest incarnation of Bieber ties into a mood that may be sweeping through menswear – and could be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
Simply speaking: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is at. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge with a tracksuit top plus a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You might dub it a hot mess for men, but the single thing you might never refer to it as is hipster – manicured beards should be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore towards the teen awards, continues to be integral on the boost in rise in popularity of denim and of jeans which can be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the kind of look that makes parents eyeroll and say: “You purchased that? Do want me to put proper hems on those?”, this has legs. Elsewhere on the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent out herringbone trousers that were roughly stop in the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing going on; up close, the holes in these knits are layered across a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – could there be in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a superb reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, probably the most in-demand photographers popular, these pictures possess a typical masculine rawness. Inside a short video to accompany this shoot, you can even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for that latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is it Man?, even though the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff have also been around one of the most talked-about moments in the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which was located in a Chinese restaurant variously described as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that had been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just rolled out of bed. Many of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like in the parcel delivery service); including the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a turn on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots plus a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in fashion is only set to carry on: after the show, one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy can be another from the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been supported by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel like a nerdy undertake Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, but not.
In reality, if everything else fails, the real key to this look is actually a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for girls (see British Vogue’s December issue, by which several tracktops are featured in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a lttle bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, since it ticks the 1990s box – along with the dexqpkyy16 has become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the opposite of the justin bieber clothing that has been the headline news in menswear for the past few years. And then finally, it’s easy to chuck on, doesn’t look like you’ve made an attempt but suggests that you know what’s happening. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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